Cleaning Your Sub-Floor

Scrapers for minor plaster and paint splatters

Rotary Sanders for dirtier and dusty build-ups (use coarse grit discs)

Drum Sanders for previously sealed slabs and removing glue residues

Note: All fixing glues require some surface absorbency to adhere properly. A simple test is to pour a little water on your floor and 30 seconds later wipe it away. If there are any signs that the water was soaking into the concrete the glue should give you a satisfactory adhesion as long as it is clean and not dusty. If still in doubt glue down a sample board to test the adhesion.

Things to Watch Out For

Chips in Your Sub-Floor bigger than a 50cent piece will offer little or no fixing support so consider patching most of them.

Broken Edges around windows may need selective repair to give your new floor a solid glue base. Check for signs of persistent water ingress from poorly sealed window and door frames.

Dips and High Spots that are excessive may need leveling out. If you are not sure, lay out some of your floorboard over the spot and see if they will flex into the uneven contours and mesh with the glue bed when nailed down. If not, grind away lumpy high spots first before considering leveling mixtures as the original concrete is generally better than topping mixtures.

Termites: Your new wood floor is like any other wood product in your house, so you need to maintain a termite watch and prevention regime to ensure your investment is protected.

Old Chipboard and Structural Sheet Flooring: Watch out for sagging of the sheets between the supporting joists and flaky surfaces.

Garden Levels and Watering Systems

1. Soil levels should be 1 brick below level of a wood floor or a waterproofing membrane properly installed on the outside wall on the part that is above the floor. 2. Water sprinkles should point away from walls and windows adjacent to a wood floor.

Concrete Moisture Levels

1. Once you have applied an epoxy sealer you can then only use epoxy compatible glues such as polyurethane glues.

2. You do not normally seal the concrete for the plank on ply floor as the plywood subfloor is usually fixed with a water based glue.

Solid Wood Flooring Installment Options

Overlay Flooring Directly Fixed to Concrete Sub-Floor

Method 1 A. Polyurethane Glue B. Removable concrete nails, taken out 24 hours later when the glue is dry.

Method 2 A. Polyurethane Glue B. Drill 3mm hole through board into concrete C. Drive fixing nail in to pull board down D. Punch nails down below surface

Fixing 12mm Plywood Sub-Floors to Concrete

A. Parquetry glue suitable for plywood to concrete
B. Minimum 12mm thick exterior/structural plywood CD or DD grade.
C. Termite-treated plywood also available

Method 1 A. Using pneumatic concrete "T" Nailer firing 15/18mm concrete nails B. Use 50-60 nails per 2400 x 1200mm sheet.

Method 2 A. Drill 5/6mm hole through plywood into concrete. B. Hammer Redi Drives into ply and concrete. C. Use 15-20 Redi Drives per 2400 x 1200mm sheet

Method 3 A. Using a powder actuated gun drive a 20-25mm nail directly through plywood into concrete. B. Use 25-30 nails per 2400 X 1200mm sheet

Fixing overlay flooring to a plywood sub-floor using pneumatic Brad Nailer. You can use either polyurethane glue or water-based parquetry glue for fixing overlay flooring over plywood. Water base glues need longer acclimation of the floor before sanding.

Note: When laying plywood, overlap the sheets and lay in the opposite direction to the way you want the boards to run.

Other Flooring Options

19mm T&G Flooring on Battens Fixed to Sub-Floor 1. Use short length battens glued with polyurethane glue (fixing optional) 2. Nails should be 1.5 times as far into the battens as they are in the floorboard itself 3. Polyurethane glue between boards and battens generally advisable

Overlay Flooring on Structural Sheet Flooring 1. Apply glue bed underneath all boards unless nails are driven through sheet flooring and into timber joists. 2. Under polyurethane glue

19mm T&G Flooring on Conventional Joists 1. Nails should be 1.5 times as far into joists as they are into the floorboard itself 2. Use polyurethane glue

Note: Gluing of new kiln dried 19mm T&G floorboard on joists and battens is generally recommended along with appropriately spaced expansion boards (ones that can be easily removed to release pressure).

Clarify Your Fitout Choices Before You Start

Main Laying Conventions	Door Frames
1. Run boards from front to back 2. Run boards to accentuate length 3. Run boards to a major light source or a room feature	Door frames left as they are and board cut in around them. The gaps are then filled in the final stage. Finish laying boards midway under the door in the closed position. Door frames can be undercut to fit boards under the frame. Thoroughly check the soundness of all the frames before you start.
Skirting and Beading	Windows, Hearths, Finish Points
Skirting fitted after the floor finished to cover the expansion gap Skirting left in place and splay beading fitted during the finishing stage to cover the expansion gap Splay bead only fitted during the finishing stage to cover the expansion gap	Corner windows can look better with a mitred feature A hearth can be enhanced by a frame effect When boards are going to finish on their end they will usually look better with a header board across the finish point
Steps and Voids	Different Levels
Steps are made up of: A. Treads B. Step nosing C. Risers Floors that run up to the edge of a void may need a nosing to finish them off if there is no face plate rising above the level of the floor Steps that have exposed edges usually have the step nosing returned to enhance their appeal	Reducer or diminishing strip to adjust different levels between floors Fitting a cover strip will protect edges that may chip

Laying Stages

1. Choose your starting point carefully and make sure it is reasonably square to adjoining walls. (Don't despair, there is no house truly square!)	2. Carefully lay your first line of boards, spend time to get it very straight	3. Cut out your first 4-6 rows of boards, spend time to get it very straight	4. Before you fix your boards check them to avoid. A. Boards that have joins close to each other (150 minimum). B. Short lengths in the middle of a run - maximise their use on the ends and, C. Watch out and avoid a staircase affect.	5. After cutting your boards to fit measure the width of the glue bed required but take off 5mm to make sure there is no uncovered glue bed sticking out past the boards, because it will interfere with loose laying the next set. Mark the edge of the glue bed with a chalk line.	6. Spread the glue in the marked-off area and lay your boards. Note: Always leave a 8 to 10mm expansion gap around the edges.

Some Clamping Techniques for Glue and Nail Installations

Your Helper's Boot	Windup Clamp	Angled Chocks	Chisel Clamping

Nailing Sequences for Glue and Nail Installations

1. Fix outside board at regular intervals (approx. 600-750mm)	2. Fix the ends of boards	3. Tap the floor for hollow sounding spots and use further fixing nails to eliminate these.