Cleaning Your Sub-Floor
Scrapers
for minor plaster and paint splatters |
Rotary Sanders
for dirtier and dusty build-ups (use coarse grit discs) |
Drum Sanders
for previously sealed slabs and removing glue residues |
Note: All fixing glues require some surface absorbency to adhere properly. A simple test is to pour a little water on your floor and 30 seconds later wipe it away. If there are any signs that the water was soaking into the concrete the glue should give you a satisfactory adhesion as long as it is clean and not dusty. If still in doubt glue down a sample board to test the adhesion.
Things to Watch Out For
Chips in Your Sub-Floor bigger than a 50cent piece will offer little or no fixing support so consider patching most of them.
Broken Edges around windows may need selective repair to give your new floor a solid glue base. Check for signs of persistent water ingress from poorly sealed window and door frames.
Dips and High Spots that are excessive may need leveling out. If you are not sure, lay out some of your floorboard over the spot and see if they will flex into the uneven contours and mesh with the glue bed when nailed down. If not, grind away lumpy high spots first before considering leveling mixtures as the original concrete is generally better than topping mixtures.
Termites: Your new wood floor is like any other wood product in your house, so you need to maintain a termite watch and prevention regime to ensure your investment is protected.
Old Chipboard and Structural Sheet Flooring: Watch out for sagging of the sheets between the supporting joists and flaky surfaces.
